St. Kunibert's Church

St. Kunibert's Church, known locally as St. Kunibert, is a majestic Romanesque basilica that graces the skyline of Cologne, Germany. This architectural gem is one of the twelve great Romanesque churches in the city and is located near the Rhine in the northern Old Town. Its storied past and stunning design make it an essential stop for any visitor to Cologne.

The History of St. Kunibert's Church

The origins of St. Kunibert's Church are steeped in legend and history. Kunibert of Cologne, born around 600 AD, was a bishop of Cologne and an advisor to King Dagobert I. According to legend, Kunibert founded a church dedicated to St. Clement of Rome on the site where the basilica now stands. Following his death, Kunibert was buried here, as per his wishes.

The construction of the current church began before 1210 under the direction of Theoderich von Wied, the provost of St. Kunibert and later the Archbishop of Trier. To accommodate the slope towards the Rhine, a crypt was built as the foundation. By 1226, the choir was completed, and in 1247, a year before the construction of the Gothic Cologne Cathedral began, St. Kunibert's Church was consecrated as a collegiate church by Auxiliary Bishop Arnold von Semgallen. The consecration was marked by a grand celebration hosted by Archbishop Conrad of Hochstaden, attended by high nobility and clergy.

The church has endured its share of calamities. In June 1376, the first west tower was destroyed by fire and was later rebuilt in Gothic style with a distinctive crooked helmet. The tower's precarious stability led to its collapse in 1830 due to a hurricane, and it was rebuilt by 1860. However, during World War II, the west tower and parts of the transept were demolished by bombings. The church roofs were set ablaze on June 29, 1944, and further damage occurred in 1945. Restoration efforts began immediately after the war, with the choir and nave being rebuilt by 1955 under the guidance of Karl Band. The west parts remained in ruins until the late 1970s when a new initiative for reconstruction was launched. By 1993, the reconstruction was completed, thanks to the efforts of the Cologne Archdiocese, the state of North Rhine-Westphalia, and the Romanesque Churches of Cologne Foundation.

The Architecture and Interior of St. Kunibert's Church

St. Kunibert's Church is a three-aisled basilica and is the youngest among Cologne's major Romanesque churches. Its late construction period contributes to its cohesive and intricate design. The exterior walls of the apse rise gracefully in two stories, culminating in a dwarf gallery that crowns the facade. The gable of the nave roof, situated between the eastern towers, features three niches that add to its architectural charm.

Inside, the basilica boasts a light-filled, intricately designed hall with an apse. Unique to St. Kunibert's Church are the two levels of column-supported walkways within the double-shelled masonry of the apse. The original windows from the early 13th century, preserved during the war, are a highlight. The upper zone depicts the legend of Saint Kunibert on the right and Saint Clement on the left, while the central window illustrates the life of Christ in the form of a Jesse Tree. The lower zone features smaller windows with depictions of Saint Ursula on the right and Saint Cordula on the left. The central ornamental window is a work by Cologne artist Will Thonett from the 1950s.

The nave, with its three-story wall structure and ribbed vaulting in the bound system, rests on rectangular pillars of alternating dimensions. The last pair of pillars before the eastern crossing area is adorned with a late Gothic Annunciation group, donated by Hermanus de Arcka in 1439, likely crafted in the Cologne Cathedral workshop under Konrad Kuene van der Hallen. Beneath the choir lies the crypt, supported by a central pillar, housing the Kunibertspütz, a well believed to bring blessings to children. The southern transept features a baptismal chapel with remnants of the original rich wall paintings. Will Thonett also created the window in the crypt's apse.

Other notable features include sculptures of the Madonna, Saint Quirinus, and a Pietà by Konrad Kuene. Since 1998, the church has housed a triptych with a crucifixion scene by the Master of the Legend of Saint George. A five-armed bronze candelabrum with a crucifix from the late 15th century stands between the nave and the west transept. Additional highlights are two panel paintings: a Mass of Saint Gregory and a winged altar with a resurrection scene by Bartholomäus Bruyn the Elder. The reliquary shrines for Saint Kunibert and the holy brothers Ewaldi, displayed in the apse, are 19th-century works.

The church's organ, built by the Swiss company Kuhn in 1993, features 41 registers. Its unusual placement between and in front of the pillars separating the nave from the right aisle was chosen to preserve the visual impact of the building. The organ's sound is inspired by the French Romantic-symphonic style, contrasting with the tonal characteristics of many newer organs in the Cologne area.

In 1998, a new treasury was opened in the north arm of the west transept, designed by Ingrid Bussenius. It showcases additional treasures, including a bust reliquary of Saint Anthony and two arm reliquaries. Modern artworks include the northern wooden doors and the Stations of the Cross by Elmar Hillebrand from 1955, and Hanns Rheindorf's silver cross and tabernacle door.

The Kunibertspütz

In the choir area, a floor plaque designed by Elmar Hillebrand in 1955 marks the crypt and the Kunibertspütz well shaft. According to legend, the well's bottom is a paradise where children play and are fed porridge by the Virgin Mary. The people of Cologne believed that children were not brought by the stork but emerged from the Kunibertspütz. Until the 19th century, it was customary for women desiring children to drink water from this well.

The Bells of St. Kunibert's Church

St. Kunibert's Church boasts a collection of 24 bells. Ten bells form the liturgical chime, with eight larger bells in the west tower and two smaller ones in the roof turret on the southern wing of the west transept. The remaining 14 bells serve as a carillon. After the Cologne Cathedral bells, this is the largest chime in the city.

Before World War II, St. Kunibert's Church had two separate chimes. The larger chime in the west tower was used exclusively by the chapter and was later taken over by the parish after the chapter's dissolution. It consisted of three bells cast by Martin Legros in 1773, dedicated to Saint Kunibert, Saint Clement, and the holy brothers Ewaldi. These bells survived the tower's collapse and the war due to their removal for maintenance. The smaller chime, the parish chime from 1453, hung in the roof turret and was used by the parish, whose main altar was below it in the southern wing of the west transept. The smaller parish bell, dedicated to Saint Clement, was moved to Saint Gregory in Distress in 1840, where it survived the war.

In conclusion, St. Kunibert's Church is not just an architectural marvel but a testament to Cologne's rich historical and cultural heritage. Its walls echo tales of resilience, faith, and artistry, making it a must-visit for anyone exploring this vibrant city.