Nestled in the heart of Dijon, France, the Saint-Michel church, or église Saint-Michel as it is known locally, stands as a testament to the rich tapestry of history and architectural innovation that defines this charming city. This stunning 16th-century church is renowned for its magnificent Renaissance façade, considered one of the most beautiful in France, and has been a historical monument since 1840.
The origins of the Saint-Michel church trace back to 889, when it was first mentioned as a modest wooden chapel near the walls of Dijon’s ancient castrum. As the congregation grew, so did the need for a larger place of worship. In 1020, Garnier de Mailly, the abbot of Saint-Étienne, initiated the construction of a more substantial structure, which was consecrated by Lambert de Bassigny, the bishop of Langres. This early version of the church was a significant 58.44 meters long and 9.74 meters wide. Garnier de Mailly, its founder, was laid to rest here in 1051.
By the late 15th century, the church had once again become too small for its parishioners. In 1497, a decision was made to construct a new church, funded by the local community. This expansion included the addition of chapels funded by affluent families in the parish. The church was consecrated anew in 1529 by Philibert de Beaujeu, the bishop of Tonnerre. The construction continued over the years, with the south portal completed in 1537 and the central portal in 1551. The iconic towers of the western façade were not completed until the mid-17th century, with the south tower finished in 1659 and the north in 1667.
The Saint-Michel church is a fascinating blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles, a reflection of the architectural evolution in Burgundy during the 16th century. The church’s façade is particularly striking, with its intricate blend of Gothic flamboyance and Renaissance elegance. The nave, choir, and transept are distinctly Gothic, built between 1511 and 1525, while the façade showcases Renaissance influence with its ornate sculptures and the use of the three classical orders: Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian.
Inside, the church is equally impressive, with a length of 57.3 meters, a width of 18.3 meters, and a height of 19.5 meters under the vaults of the nave and choir. The sacristy, constructed in the early 18th century and expanded in the 19th, adds to the church’s architectural charm.
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Beyond its architectural beauty, the Saint-Michel church houses an array of artistic masterpieces. Among its treasures are paintings such as The Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian from the Neapolitan school, dated 1640, and works by artists like Philippe Quantin and Nicolas Bertin. The church also features a series of paintings by François Krause from 1737, depicting scenes like The Adoration of the Shepherds and The Presentation at the Temple.
The Saint-Michel church is not only a monument of historical and artistic importance but also a site of deep spiritual significance. It was the parish church of Saint Élisabeth of the Trinity, who made her first communion here in 1891 and later joined the Carmel of Dijon. Her relics are preserved in the church, housed in a shrine crafted by Stefano Borin.
Over the centuries, the Saint-Michel church has undergone various restorations to preserve its grandeur. Notably, modifications to the roof in 1847 led to damage in the sculptures, which were subsequently restored at the end of the 19th century and again in the 1970s and 1990s. These efforts ensure that the church remains a vibrant part of Dijon’s cultural heritage.
Visiting the Saint-Michel church is not just an opportunity to explore a remarkable architectural feat but also a chance to immerse oneself in the rich history and culture of Dijon. As you stand before its grand façade or wander through its hallowed halls, you are not merely witnessing a piece of history; you are experiencing the enduring legacy of a community that has cherished and preserved this sacred space for over a millennium.
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