The Fortress of San Marko, known locally as Fuerte de San Marcos, stands as a magnificent testament to Spain's rich military history. Nestled between the municipalities of San Sebastián and Errenteria in the province of Gipuzkoa, this 19th-century fortification offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into the past while providing breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.
The origins of the Fortress of San Marko are steeped in controversy and a series of evolving plans. The final design, signed off by Captain of Engineers Luis Nieva, came after numerous drafts dating back to 1878. Initially proposed by Pedro Lorente, the project underwent several revisions by engineers such as Juan Roca, Francisco Echagüe, and José Brandis before reaching its final form in 1884. The fortress was inaugurated in 1888, forming part of the Campo Atrincherado de Oyarzun, a defensive network meant to include eight forts. Of these, only San Marko, Txoritokieta, and Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe were completed.
As you approach the fortress, you are immediately struck by its imposing presence atop Mount San Marko at an altitude of 260 meters. The entrance is through a tunnel that connects to a bridge leading to the main gate, setting the stage for an unforgettable journey back in time.
The fortress is divided into two main sections: the lower section, featuring a barbette battery aimed at the port of Pasajes and Oyarzun, and the upper section, a U-shaped building made of concrete vaults on masonry piers. The heart of this upper section is the parade ground, enclosed by the less exposed barracks of the gorge. The second floor, which also served as troop quarters, contains 19 gun ports, of which eight were sealed with exterior earthworks. These ports housed eleven 150 mm cannons, while the lower floor included guardrooms, powder and projectile stores, and officer quarters.
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The parade ground is the most striking feature of the fortress, complemented by the guardhouse and the pavilions for the governor and officers. Beneath the parade ground lies a large cistern capable of holding 100 cubic meters of water, sufficient to supply 250 men for 143 days without external replenishment.
Surrounding the fortress is an 8-meter-wide moat with varying heights of 2 to 7 meters, adding another layer of defense. The fortress also boasts three flanking batteries: the head caponier, the half caponier, and the gorge caponier. The covered path around the fortress, 530 meters in length, connects to the war gate of the half caponier via a counterscarp staircase.
In its heyday, the fortress was manned by 200 infantry soldiers and 50 artillerymen, who operated 16 150 mm cannons, three 210 mm howitzers, and eight machine guns. Although many artillery pieces were relocated to other forts in 1896, the fortress remained a military hub for several decades, even serving as a detention center for non-commissioned officers.
In 2009, restoration work began on the Fortress of San Marko, including the installation of various artillery replicas in the lower section (five cannons in the barbette battery, three howitzers in the curved fire battery, and six machine guns in the caponiers), as well as period soldier sculptures and ammunition storage displays. Today, the fortress is part of the Lau-Haizeta Park, seamlessly blending into the recreational and cultural landscape of the area.
Visiting the Fortress of San Marko is not just an educational experience but also a visual delight. The location offers panoramic views of the Gipuzkoan coast, including the bays of La Concha and Txingudi. Whether you are a history buff, a nature enthusiast, or simply looking for a unique outing, the Fortress of San Marko promises a memorable experience.
In conclusion, the Fortress of San Marko stands as a remarkable relic of Spain's military past. Its strategic design, historical significance, and stunning vistas make it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the Basque Country. So, pack your bags and step into a world where history and nature intertwine, offering a journey you won't soon forget.
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