Located in the heart of Lens, France, the Église Saint-Léger, or as it is known locally, église Saint-Léger de Lens, stands as a testament to resilience, history, and architectural beauty. This magnificent church, with its towering bell tower and intricate interior, has witnessed centuries of change, war, and rebirth, making it a must-visit for anyone exploring the region.
The story of the Église Saint-Léger is one of perseverance through adversity. The current structure is the third church to occupy this site. The original church was constructed in the first half of the 10th century, likely under the auspices of Eustache I, Count of Boulogne and Lens. This early church faced significant damage during the Thirty Years' War, leading to repairs in the late 17th century, which unfortunately resulted in its collapse.
In May 1776, a new chapter began with the laying of the first stone for a new church. Built in the Jesuit style by the Leclercq brothers from Aire-sur-la-Lys, it was inaugurated on January 18, 1780. However, the turbulent times of the French Revolution saw the church transformed into a Temple of Reason in 1793, then a powder factory, and later a forage store. It wasn't until 1803 that the church was returned to religious use.
The early 20th century brought further trials. During World War I, the German army occupied Lens and requisitioned the church. By 1915, it had suffered damage from bombardments and was completely destroyed on January 19, 1916. The resilient spirit of the Lensois led to the decision to rebuild the church in 1921. The project commenced in 1923, with the first stone laid in 1924. By May 24, 1926, the new church was inaugurated by Eugène Julien, Bishop of Arras. The church's interior features, including the pulpit and the grand organ, were completed by 1930.
World War II brought additional challenges. The church was damaged by a torpedo in May 1940 and again in August 1944, though its structure remained intact. Significant restoration efforts in the late 20th century saw the dome completely rebuilt in 1981 and extensive renovations completed in 1996. Today, Église Saint-Léger serves the city center and is part of the Saint-François-d'Assise parish grouping in Lens, with Sunday mass held at 10:45 AM.
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The Église Saint-Léger, rebuilt in a style reminiscent of its predecessor, now boasts a structure of reinforced concrete rather than stone. Its architectural design includes a nave and side aisles with five bays, flying buttresses, and a semicircular apse. The attached bell tower, a prominent feature, stands proudly at the front of the façade. The narthex is adorned with a main portal and two side entrances.
Inside, the church is equally impressive. The chancel, with its barrel vault, is illuminated by three stained glass windows, the central one depicting Saint Léger. The nave's flooring is decorated with Jerusalem crosses, and the nave and aisles are separated by columns supporting round arches.
Among the church's treasures is a 17th-century statue of the Virgin Mary, the sole surviving relic from the original church, found in the ruins and now housed in the chapel dedicated to those who perished in the Great War. This statue has been classified as a historical monument since May 12, 1944.
The grand organ, a masterpiece of French classical style, was crafted by Michel Garnier of Lumbres and inaugurated in 1988. Garnier incorporated some of the wooden pipes from the previous instrument, while the organ's case, inspired by classical designs, was created by René Debray, a cabinetmaker from Saint-Nicolas-lez-Arras.
A visit to the Église Saint-Léger is a journey through time. As you step through its grand portals, you are transported into a space that has borne witness to the ebb and flow of history. The serene interior, with its soaring arches and beautiful stained glass, offers a moment of reflection and peace. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or a spiritual seeker, the Église Saint-Léger invites you to explore its storied past and appreciate its enduring beauty.
In conclusion, the Église Saint-Léger is more than just a church; it is a symbol of the resilience and faith of the people of Lens. Its walls tell stories of destruction and rebirth, making it an essential stop on any visit to this historic city. So, when in Lens, take the time to visit this remarkable edifice and immerse yourself in its rich heritage.
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