Église Saint-Polycarpe, nestled in the vibrant heart of Lyon’s Croix-Rousse district, is a hidden gem that offers a fascinating glimpse into the rich tapestry of the city's religious and architectural history. This stunning church, originally known as église Saint-Polycarpe de Lyon, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the Oratorians who began its construction in the mid-17th century.
The story of Église Saint-Polycarpe begins with the Oratorians, a religious order that settled in Lyon in 1616. By 1642, they had established themselves on the slopes of Croix-Rousse, and in 1665, they embarked on the ambitious project of building this church. Completed in 1670, the church initially lacked the grand façade that now graces its exterior. This addition came later, in 1756, designed by architect Toussaint-Noël Loyer.
In 1791, during the tumultuous times of the French Revolution, the church transitioned from its original purpose to become a parish church, adopting the name Saint-Polycarpe. This was in homage to Saint Polycarp, a revered figure in early Christianity and a mentor to the first bishops of Lyon, Saint Pothin and Saint Irenaeus.
The façade of Église Saint-Polycarpe bears the scars of history, quite literally. During the revolutionary events of 1793, when the Convention ordered cannon fire from the Brotteaux, the church’s exterior was damaged. One can still observe a mark on the right pilaster, a silent witness to the church's resilience through turbulent times.
From 1826 to 1836, the church underwent significant expansion under the guidance of architect François-Jacques Farfouillon. This included the addition of a transept, dome, and choir, further enhancing the church's architectural splendor. The interior is a feast for the eyes, with its elaborate decorations and intricate designs that were part of a comprehensive 19th-century decorative program.
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Inside Église Saint-Polycarpe, visitors are greeted by an array of artistic treasures. The church is home to magnificent works by some of Lyon’s finest artists, including sculptor Joseph Fabisch and architect Pierre Bossan. The grand organ, crafted by Augustin Zeiger in 1842, stands proudly with its walnut case designed by Bossan, offering an auditory delight to complement the visual feast.
Marvel at the altars and retables, particularly the one dedicated to the Virgin Mary, a collaborative project by Bossan and Tony Desjardins, executed by Fabisch. The master altar, also by Fabisch, is another highlight, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship of the period.
Église Saint-Polycarpe is not just a visual spectacle but also a hub of musical heritage. The church’s organ has been the instrument of choice for many renowned musicians, including Adrien Rougier, who premiered several works here. The church's acoustics and ambiance make it a preferred venue for concerts and recitals, continuing its tradition as a center for musical excellence.
One of the church's most poignant features is the chapel of St. Francis Xavier, where the heart of Blessed Pauline-Marie Jaricot rests. As the founder of the Society for the Propagation of the Faith, her legacy is deeply intertwined with the church’s history, making it a site of pilgrimage for many.
A visit to Église Saint-Polycarpe is a journey through time, offering insights into Lyon’s religious and cultural evolution. Whether you're an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or simply seeking a moment of reflection, this church provides a serene escape from the bustling city outside.
As you explore the charming streets of Croix-Rousse, make sure to set aside time to step into the tranquility of Église Saint-Polycarpe. Its walls echo with stories of faith, resilience, and artistry, inviting visitors to connect with Lyon’s rich heritage in a truly unique setting.
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