The Church of San Lázaro, or Iglesia de San Lázaro in the local language, stands as a remarkable testament to the rich historical tapestry of Palencia, Spain. This enchanting Gothic church, with its roots stretching back to the 14th century, offers visitors a glimpse into the architectural evolution and cultural significance that have marked its storied past.
The origins of the Church of San Lázaro are steeped in legend and tradition. It is said to have been founded in 1076 by the legendary Spanish knight, El Cid Campeador. Initially serving as a hospital for pilgrims and lepers, this humble beginning is commemorated by an inscription above the church's entrance. Over the centuries, the church has undergone numerous transformations, with significant reconstruction efforts taking place in the early 16th century under the patronage of Don Sancho de Castilla. These renovations included the installation of the Castilla family mausoleum and the church's transition to the care of the Order of Saint John of God.
The Church of San Lázaro is a fascinating blend of architectural styles, reflecting its long and varied history. The west facade and the tower are prime examples of early Gothic architecture, dating back to the late 13th and early 14th centuries. These elements are characterized by their austere design, devoid of ornamentation, yet exuding a dignified elegance. The oldest part of the church, the Sala del Perdón, is located at the base of the tower, offering a glimpse into the church's medieval past.
The church's single nave and the stunning apse at the eastern end are magnificent examples of the flamboyant Gothic style of the 16th century. The slender pinnacles and coats of arms adorning the buttresses speak to the influence of the Castilla and Enríquez families. The southern side of the church features a later addition—a low, narrow aisle with star-shaped vaults and intricate tracery, a nod to the Gothic revival style.
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One of the most captivating features of the Church of San Lázaro is its stunning Plateresque altarpiece, dating from the 16th century. This masterpiece, although not the original, is a testament to the artistic vision of its creators. The original altarpiece, commissioned by Don Sancho and painted by the Flemish artist Juan de Flandes, was replaced in the 18th century with a Baroque design. Sadly, the original paintings were dispersed, with some now residing in the Museo del Prado in Madrid and the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C.
The current altarpiece, sourced from the church in Tordehumos, is a dazzling display of Renaissance artistry. Crafted by Manuel Álvarez, it features a profusion of gilded and polychrome sculptures, attributed to the schools of Alonso Berruguete and Juan de Valmaseda. At its heart is a modern painting, Emaús, by the Palencian artist Antonio Guzmán Capel, surrounded by a host of sculptural depictions of saints and biblical scenes.
Stepping inside the Church of San Lázaro, visitors are enveloped in an atmosphere of serene grandeur. The soaring vaults and intricately carved details speak to centuries of devotion and craftsmanship. The church houses several other Baroque altarpieces, each a testament to the rich artistic heritage of the region. Notably, a 16th-century crucifix attributed to Juan de Valmaseda commands attention, embodying the spiritual essence of the church.
The Church of San Lázaro is more than just a place of worship; it is a living chronicle of Palencia's history. From its legendary founding by El Cid to its role as a hospital and its transformation into a parish church, San Lázaro has been a silent witness to the ebb and flow of time. Its walls echo with the stories of countless generations, making it an essential stop for anyone seeking to understand the cultural and historical fabric of this enchanting city.
In conclusion, the Church of San Lázaro offers a unique blend of history, architecture, and art that captivates all who visit. Its Gothic splendor, coupled with its rich narrative, ensures that this sacred space remains a cherished landmark in Palencia, inviting exploration and reflection for generations to come.
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