Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Dormition de Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois, a splendid example of Russian Orthodox architecture, stands as a serene sanctuary amidst the lush greenery of Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois, a charming commune in the Essonne department of France. This church, whose name translates to the Church of Our Lady of the Dormition in Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois, is a beacon of cultural heritage and spiritual solace, inviting visitors to step into a tranquil world far removed from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
The story of Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Dormition de Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois begins in 1927 when the Château de la Cossonnerie was acquired to serve as a retirement home for Russian émigrés in France. This acquisition laid the foundation for the creation of a dedicated section within the new municipal cemetery for Russian Orthodox burials. The church itself was conceived as a place to celebrate funerals and parish services for the Russian community. The cornerstone was laid on April 9, 1938, and the church was consecrated on October 14, 1939, by Metropolitan Euloge, marking the birth of a spiritual haven for the Russian Orthodox faithful in France.
The church is a stunning embodiment of the architectural principles of Novgorod from the 15th and 16th centuries. Its design follows a square plan, with the façade facing west and a circular apse flanked by two smaller apsidal chapels. The whitewashed walls, pierced by narrow windows, exude a sense of purity and simplicity, while the green-painted roof symbolizes the earth. Crowning the structure is a striking blue onion dome, representing the heavens, which is a characteristic feature of Russian Orthodox churches. Adjacent to the church stands a rectangular campanile, also adorned in white, green, and blue, housing six bells that resonate with the serene ambiance of the surroundings.
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The entrance porch is adorned with a beautiful fresco depicting the Dormition of the Mother of God, also known as the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. This fresco sets the tone for the spiritual journey that awaits inside. The dome of the nave features a fresco of Christ blessing the congregation, a powerful image that inspires reverence and devotion. The wooden iconostasis, crafted by engineer Grékoff, is a masterpiece in itself, showcasing icons of the twelve great religious feasts. Each icon tells a story, offering a visual narrative of the key events in the Christian liturgical calendar.
Within the church, the table of the deceased bears a plaque commemorating the thirty thousand Cossacks—men, women, and children—who, having followed the German army during World War II, were handed over to the Soviets by the British Allies in Lienz on June 1, 1945, as part of the secret Yalta agreements. This tragic event, which led to the mass extermination of these Cossacks, is a poignant reminder of the church’s role as a keeper of memory and a place of mourning.
Descending into the crypt, visitors will find the tombs of the bishops of the Orthodox Diocese of Western Europe of Russian Tradition (Ecumenical Patriarchate), as well as the graves of Albert Benois, the architect and painter of the church’s frescoes, and his wife Marguerite. Several benefactors of the church, including Vladimir Nikolaïevitch Kokovtsov, also rest here. The crypt serves as a silent witness to the lives and contributions of those who have played a pivotal role in the church’s history.
Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Dormition de Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois is more than just a place of worship; it is a cultural and spiritual oasis that offers a glimpse into the rich heritage of the Russian Orthodox tradition. The church’s serene setting, surrounded by trees and greenery, enhances its aura of peace and contemplation. Visitors can take a leisurely stroll through the nearby cemetery, where the graves of many Russian émigrés, including notable figures from the arts and politics, can be found. This peaceful resting place underscores the church’s role as a guardian of the Russian diaspora’s legacy in France.
For those planning a visit, the church is located on Rue Léo-Lagrange, on the outskirts of Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois. Its somewhat secluded location, partially nestled within the Bois des Troux, adds to its charm and tranquility. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply seeking a moment of spiritual reflection, Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Dormition de Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois offers a unique and enriching experience. Step inside this architectural gem, and let the echoes of its past and the beauty of its art transport you to a world of serenity and reverence.
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