Viboldone Abbey

Viboldone Abbey, known locally as Abbazia di Viboldone, is a hidden gem nestled in the tranquil town of San Giuliano Milanese, in the province of Milan, Italy. This serene sanctuary is a splendid example of medieval architecture and is renowned for its stunning 14th-century frescoes. The Abbey's historical significance and artistic treasures make it one of the most important medieval complexes in Lombardy, drawing visitors who seek to immerse themselves in its rich heritage and serene beauty.

The History of Viboldone Abbey

The origins of Viboldone Abbey date back to 1176 when it was founded by the Humiliati, a religious order composed of monks, nuns, and laypeople dedicated to a life of prayer and labor. The construction of the Abbey was completed in 1348, a date that is proudly inscribed on a plaque to the right of the main entrance. The Humiliati were particularly known for their innovative wool cloth production and agricultural practices, which made Viboldone Abbey a significant center for the order, second only to Santa Maria in Brera.

However, the Abbey's fortunes took a turn in 1571 when Saint Charles Borromeo suppressed the Humiliati. The Benedictine Olivetans took over the Abbey, but their tenure was cut short in 1777 when the Austrian government forced them to abandon the site. The Abbey languished in neglect until 1940 when Cardinal Ildefonso Schuster entrusted it to a community of nuns led by Margherita Marchi, who had separated from the Benedictine Sisters of Priscilla. The sui iuris monastery of the Benedictine nuns of Viboldone was canonically established on May 1, 1941. Since then, the nuns have dedicated themselves to making jams and, since 1945, have also engaged in significant religious and theological publishing activities.

In 1965, Pope Paul VI ordered the relocation of Abbot Aureli Maria Escarré of Montserrat to Viboldone Abbey to protect him from Francoist persecution. For many years, the chaplain of the Benedictine community was Luisito Bianchi, a notable figure who served until 2012.

Architectural Marvels of Viboldone Abbey

The facade of Viboldone Abbey is a striking example of medieval architecture. It features a gabled design with open windows that reach towards the sky. The facade is constructed from exposed brickwork, interspersed with white stone decorations and flanked by two tripartite half-columns. The main portal, crafted from white marble, is adorned with marble sculptures of the Madonna and Child flanked by Saints Ambrose and John of Meda, attributed to the sculptor known as the Master of the Viboldone Sculptures. On either side, Gothic niches house statues of Saints Peter and Paul, dating back to the 14th century. The main wooden door, with its large wooden ribs and nails, is a testament to the craftsmanship of the era.

The Bell Tower

The bell tower of Viboldone Abbey is a unique feature, rising above the church's tiburio with a basket-shaped cone, in keeping with Cistercian tradition. The tower mirrors the facade's color scheme and decorative elements, including terracotta cornices and small arches at the base of the mullioned and triforate windows, topped by oculi. The simplicity of the architectural elements inside the church contrasts with the vibrant frescoes that cover much of the interior, bathing the space in light and color.

Inside the Church

The church's floor plan is rectangular, consisting of three naves with five bays each, framed by transverse pointed arches. The first nave is Romanesque, while the subsequent naves, built in the 13th century, are Gothic with terracotta columns supporting high cross vaults. The keystone at the center of the cross vaults is surrounded by segments arranged in a rainbow pattern, symbolizing God's friendship with humanity. The brick columns in the naves have capitals made from the same material, shaped into notched cubes.

The Organ

The Abbey's organ, built in 2004 by Giovanni Pradella, is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. It features a fully mechanical action with two keyboards (the first Great Organ and the second Echo Organ) each with 58 notes, and a pedalboard with 27 keys. The Registri in comune stops can be used on either keyboard, offering numerous combinations and tonal nuances despite the limited number of stops. This versatility makes the instrument suitable for both serious instruction and concert activities, as well as liturgical use.

The Frescoes

Viboldone Abbey is home to numerous renowned frescoes, masterpieces from the so-called Giotto School. On the front wall of the tiburio, the central fresco depicts the Madonna in Majesty with Saints, dated directly to 1349. Art historian Roberto Longhi attributed these frescoes to this artist, a view shared by Liana Castelfranchi-Vegas (1959) and Stella Matalon (1963). On the opposite wall, Giusto de’ Menabuoi's Last Judgment, created around 1370, features a radiant Christ in a mandorla, flanked by the blessed on his right and the damned on his left, with Satan depicted in a terrifying form.

The Music Room

On the first floor of the building adjacent to the church, the Sala della Musica (Music Room) offers a unique glimpse into the musical instruments used in Milan between the late 15th and early 16th centuries. The frescoes depict a colonnade with fluted pilasters dividing twelve windows, each showcasing various musical instruments in a monochrome red earth with black shading and ocher highlights on a white background. The life-sized instruments are arranged in pairs in a trophy-like pattern, emphasizing the centrality, symmetry, and weightlessness typical of grotesques.

Viboldone Abbey is more than just a historical monument; it is a living testament to the enduring spirit of the religious communities that have called it home. Its architectural splendor, artistic treasures, and serene ambiance make it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the rich cultural heritage of Lombardy.